Monday, May 31, 2010

Dinner on the grill: Shrimp, broccoli, and new potatoes

"Anyway, like I was sayin', shrimp is the fruit of the sea. You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it." - Bubba, Forrest Gump

This was my Memorial Day cookout, but it would be a tasty grilled dinner any day of the week.

For the shrimp:

You will need:
about .5 - .75 lb cleaned head-on shrimp per person (depending on how much you like shrimp. You could get away with less, but I love shrimp, and ate the whole bowl myself.) - you could also use just tails. If they are small, skewer them.

1 lb new potatoes (red or white) for about 3-4 people

broccoli... you can decide how much per person. I ate a whole crown myself, but again, I love broccoli. I used crowns and quartered them.
salt
pepper
olive oil
fresh rosemary - about 3 large sprigs
fresh thyme - 5 - 8 pieces
citrus olive oil (or a little lemon)
chopped cayenne pepper
garlic

For the shrimp:

Mix about 2 TBS olive oil (use a mix of citrus EVOO and regular, or add lemon), 1 tsp chopped garlic, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper (I'd use about 1 tsp, but some like it super hot - use your judgment).

Once the shrimp are cleaned, add to the EVOO mix, and let marinade for 1-5 hours. Give a good shake every once in a while, when you pass by the refrigerator.


For the potatoes:
Slice potatoes in half down the length, so you have thin, oval pieces.
Fine chop the rosemary and thyme. Put in a bowl with about 1 TBS EVOO and 2 pinches of salt.
Toss the potatoes in the EVOO and let rest for at least 5 minutes, up to 30 minutes.


Brush the broccoli with EVOO. You can even use the leftover EVOO from the potatoes.

Grilling:
Everything for this meal is cooked over direct medium heat.

Get the grill warmed up. Spray or brush with grill spray (Pam) or olive oil on a paper towel.

Place the potatoes cut side down on the grill. Do not attempt to move them for at least 10 minutes. They may stick at first. If they start to burn, turn the heat down. 8-10 minutes after the potatoes are on, put the shrimp on the grill. (8 for bigger shrimp, 10 for skewered shrimp tails.) Next, add the broccoli.
Turn the potatoes, and close the lid. When the shrimp start to turn pink, flip them. Turn the broccoli when it begins to char.
Cook potatoes and broccoli to preferred doneness. Shrimp is done when it is pinkish red, or looks like boiled shrimp does. (See first picture.)

There's pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burger...

Thanks to Bubba in Forrest Gump, we know of the versatility of shrimp. Who doesn't recall the scene where he ticks off the multitude of shrimp dishes?
(If you just answered "I don't...", stop reading this and go watch Forrest Gump. Come back when you are done watching and crying, please.)
There are dozens of kinds of shrimp. Krill are shrimp. Sea monkey pets are shrimp. Big shrimp, little shrimp, shrimp with horns (that seriously hurt...)....
Personally, unless I'm making some Louisiana gumbo, I prefer fresh North Carolina shrimp. There is no shrimp sweeter. (Stay with me, Louisiana Faithful...) Thanks to my husband's family, I have been immersed in NC shrimp, and stand by what they taught me. Regardless of which shrimp you use, there are a few things you should consider.

1) Fresh vs. frozen. Shrimp, raw or cooked, does not freeze well. It will come out mushier or mealier than it should. In the event never frozen shrimp can not be found, use frozen. Try and get it from a place with a good turn-over, or from a local fishmonger who can likely tell you when it was caught and frozen.

2) Head-on vs. no head. The heads of shrimp impart a delicious flavor on any dish, which is why you see their heads sticking out of true paellas. That, and it looks cool. If you do not intend on cooking with the head, you can twist them off (very simple, like opening a bottle) and use them in any fish broth, stock, or dish you may be making. They will freeze just fine, so don't be afraid to save them up (pre or post cooking) and keep them waiting for the day you want to make shrimp bisque or clam chowder. In some Asian dishes, you eat the head as well. I'm uncertain how this works, but it is supposedly delicious. If you are in a hurry, don't want to deal with heads, or they creep you out, get just the tails. Tails are especially good for cocktails.
Please note that pre-peeled shrimp is not listed. It is worth it to buy the shrimps in the shell and peel them yourself. The shell helps to keep the shrimp moist and flavorful.

3) Size. The number listed shows how many you get per pound. 20-25 is a great size for cocktails and most dishes. 30-35 are great for pasta dishes. I used 15-18 head-on shrimp (pictured above), which will go on the grill without skewers. Head-on 15-18 shrimp are about the same as head-off 20-25. Obviously, without heads, you get more per pound, which is why they cost more.
Now that you know the basics, we get to the very old debate: Devein, or not devein... that is the question.
If you watch food network, you have probably seen someone on some competitive cooking show lose points here or be disqualified there for leaving the vein in a shrimp tail.
This is because the vein is really the intestine, and some people don't want to eat shrimp poo.

Do I think it absolutely necessary to clean a shrimp every single time? No. That said, the only time I do not clean shrimp is when we have shrimp throw-down cocktail on the Outer Banks. I know where the shrimp came from, and I don't have the patience to clean 40+ shrimp. Besides, why mess with perfection?
Deveining makes a nice slit in the back of the shrimp that allows marinade to seep into the shrimp while keeping it moist during cooking, and the added bonus of having the head packs a flavorful punch.

For all others, especially as they get up there in size (larger shrimp = larger intestines...), clean as follows:


Set-up: I have the bag the shrimp came in, ready to take any garbage and be tied up and tossed out. Lesson #1: Shrimp parts left out will waste no time in making your house smell like a dead raccoon.

Also, a container for the shrimp, paper towels, and a sharp paring knife. I have never used a shrimp deveiner, but they exist, and I hear are delightful.
Once you get into a rhythm, this will go faster than you expected.You can usually see the dark vein of the shrimp through the shell:
Step 1: Hold the shrimp as pictured above. Starting at the base of the tail, make a shallow slit down the back of the tail. I do this by holding the paring knife blade side up (don't get your face too close to your hands) and opening as if you would an envelope or lobster tail.

Step 2: Use the knife blade to remove the vein.You found orange, you say? Congratulations! It's a girl!


Your shrimp are clean and ready for whatever you have planned!

(See what I have planned for these shrimp in my next post!)

Keep your veggies crisp!

I went to the grocery store today in search of broccoli. Broccoli is one of my most favorite vegetables, and I wanted some to accompany my shrimp on the grill tonight. I am still upset that the caterpillars have desecrated my delicious broccoli plants.

The broccoli crowns in the store were limp. What is a broccoli-loving girl to do?


Here's the thing:
When you go to the store and the veggies look limp, it isn't because they aren't being refrigerated properly. It is because they are dehydrated. Now, this obviously will not work for some veggies, but for a good number, it works wonders.

Vegetables like broccoli, heads of lettuce, bundles of herbs, greens, asparagus, cauliflower, and rabe are all to be treated like a bouquet of fresh flowers.
When you get home, trim the bottoms, and stand the vegetable up in some water. I usually use a container or bowl. I've used vases for endive, greens, and romaine. It doesn't matter. Just get the cut side in the water. Just like flowers, once in water, they should perk right up.

You can put this in the refrigerator, vase and all, or you can simply stand it on the counter. You wouldn't put your flowers in the refrigerator, after all. All veggies are best fresh, but if you do not use them all immediately, refresh the water every day.
My once-limp broccoli is now green and glowing, and ready to be grilled.


Sunday, May 30, 2010

coq au vin


I'm not certain how this recipe has remained unwritten on this blog (or I didn't tag it properly), but I am here to redeem that today.

My husband is visiting this weekend, and requested this dish. I am happy to oblige. It is a great "Sunday dish", when you have time to really take your time enjoying making this beautiful dish. Like making sauce, this is cooking therapy.
First, you need to prepare the chicken. I marinated mine 7 hours in advance. You could marinade the chicken up to 12 hours in advance, especially if you have a light wine.


For marinade, you will need:

1 whole chicken, cut up (Frenched) - remember: save the neck, wing tips, and backbone for stock!
3 cloves of garlic, crushed or rough chopped4-5 sprigs of fresh thyme
kosher salt & fresh ground pepper (with all recipes, always assume kosher salt and fresh pepper unless specified)about 2/3 bottle of red wine.
Choose a light-bodied red, such as pinot noir, burgundy, or chianti. I went with a pinot blend. Use actual wine, not cooking wine, even if you choose a cheap real wine, such as two buck chuck. For a nice touch, marinate the chicken in a wine you will serve with the chicken, or at least use the same berry wine. It is fine to use a pre-opened bottle you didn't quite finish.

Pat the chicken pieces dry with paper towel. Generously salt and pepper both sides of chicken. Lay into a tupperware (preferably in one layer). Add thyme, garlic, and wine (to cover). Marinate for at least 4 hours, and up to 12. Any longer may overpower the chicken. Shake or flip the chicken every once in a while. The marinade serves the purpose of making the chicken moist, not saturating it.

Next step:
Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
You will need:

4 slices of bacon, chopped
1/3 bag pearl onions (no sauce)about 10 button or baby bella mushrooms (if larger, slice)
a "pat" of butter
about 1-2 tsp EVOO
a large dutch oven (one that all the chicken can fit into in one layer, even if it is a crowded layer)
a saute pan
Remove chicken from marinade, reserving marinade. Let drain while fixing the bacon.
In the dutch oven, over medium heat, brown the bacon. (Tip: Add bacon to a cool pan, give plenty of space, and don't rush. It will brown evenly and crisp without burning this way.)
Once the bacon is brown, remove to a bowl and pat the chicken dry. Brown the chicken in small batches (I usually do one thigh, drum, and breast at a time - overcrowding will steam the chicken, and you won't get the golden sear you are looking for), about 5 minutes on each side.

Once all the chicken is browned, return all chicken and bacon to the pot along with about 1/2 of the marinade - enough to go 1/2 way up the chicken - not cover.
Cover, and place in the oven.
Now, get out that saute pan.
Melt butter over medium heat. Add EVOO, and do not let brown. Once the butter is melted, add the pearl onions.
The trick with pearl onions is to not break up their delicate layers. You can gently flip them with a spoon, but the more fun way is to flip them in the air. If you do not know how to do this, pearl onions in a slew of butter is about as easy as it gets, so go ahead and try. I found this lovely tutorial in the event you would like to try. I tried for an action shot, but it ended badly.

Don't flip them too frequently, as they will never get the chance to brown. Since I love to flip food, I usually need to walk away for 3-5 minute intervals, to ensure I don't over-flip.
This is a great time to flip your chicken.
Once they are browned - and don't expect an even brown (10 - 15 minutes), remove to a bowl (use a slotted spoon, or try and keep the juices in the pan), and saute the mushrooms in the same manner, adding more EVOO as needed.
Once the mushrooms are sauteed, return the onions to the pan, and add the rest of the marinade along with any garlic and thyme that may remain. Add a bay leaf to the pan. Throw a little salt and pepper into the pan. Let this simmer over medium heat until you've reduced the sauce to a thick glaze. It should look like this:

It should smell amazing and then some.


Once the sauce is reduced, flip your chicken and add the onions, mushrooms, and glaze into the dutch oven. Cover, and let cook for 45 minutes or longer.


After cooking, the juices will have reduced more than in the above picture. (This was right after adding in the glaze.)

This is the most basic, pure form of coq au vin. Tonight, I stuck to the classics, but there are many things you can do from here.

For a health boost, peel carrots and cut them into 4 or 5 pieces (at an angle, so they look fancy) and add when adding the glaze. This will also impart a sweetness to the dish, which is excellent if you used a dry or tart wine.

If you add too much liquid and your chicken is swimming, or you like more of a thick gravy, you can either reduce the liquid on the stove (like you did with the onions) or make a roux and whisk that into the juices after removing the chicken from the dutch oven (over medium heat on the stove top).

On colder nights, add fingerling or small white potatoes. Depending on the size, either halve or quarter the potatoes, or (for the very small), peel a strip around the potatoes and set on top of the chicken.

To make this a heartier dish (also great for cold nights), serve over egg noodles. This is also great for leftovers.

Enjoy!

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Hatteras-Style Clam Soup


I love soup. However, when the thermostat reads 97 degrees, I am not always in the mood for a delicious chowder, a tomato and pasta minestrone, or a creamy bisque. I enjoy a clear, clean, light soup.

One of my favorites is Hatteras clam soup. It is frequently referred to as chowder, but the lack of a cream base makes it soup in my eyes.
Whatever you call it, like a rose, it is not changed by what you call it.

I have enjoyed this soup many times while at Nag's Head, NC. The best, in my opinion, comes from Austin's Fish Market. Today I am 3 hours away from Austin's.

Since this soup has few ingredients, I decided to try my own version. It is not the same as Austin's, but it is delicious in its own right, and is, at the core, Hatteras Clam Soup.


The version I made will feed about 4 if you have really big bowls or appetites.

First, lets talk clams. There are many options for clams, and almost all will do. I recommend fresh clams you steam yourself over pre-diced clams in juice, and pre-diced clams (which you can find in your fish department) over canned clams (which I've never used, so I'm not sure how it would turn out).

I used regular steamers. There are larger clams, which would mean you need less, but get more clam stomach. You can use teeny little clams or long necks, as long as you remember to take the necks off of them.


You will need:

about a dozen clams
4 oz. clam juice
about 2 oz. white wine
1 tsp minced garlic
3 pieces thick cut bacon
1 small onion, diced
3 carrots, chopped
2 stalks of celery (or the center of the bunch) with green leaves, diced
1 Idaho potato, peeled and diced.
water
salt
pepper
fresh thyme (3 sprigs- ish)

Steam the clams in a soup pot. To steam, use about 8oz water, the white wine, and garlic. Small clams should take 7-10 minutes to steam. Discard any clams that do not open.
Remove clams from shells, reserving juice. Place the shucked clams in the freezer. This will help later, when you dice them.

Strain the broth (a funnel with a coffee filter works well) and wash the pot out. Return strained broth to pot along with clam juice and 3 cups of water, celery, thyme, potato, and carrots. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer.

In a small fry pan, cook the bacon. Dice, then add to the pot. Saute the onion in the drippings from the bacon. Add to pot.


Add about a teaspoon of salt. Add fresh ground pepper to taste.

Dice clams and add to pot.

Cook for about 20 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Enjoy!

Monday, May 3, 2010

Chicken in a pouch dinner

Since my husband will be in Boston for the summer (and I will not), I have told him he can have whatever he wants for dinner this week.

He chose chicken in a pouch dinner.

I have only made food in foil pouches when throwing them into coals in the woods, but my mother-in-law used to make foil pouch dinner when she was short on time.

I felt like I was cheating, putting food in foil whilst surrounded by such beautiful cookware.

But it was so tasty.


We used Dan's (and Lynn's) base recipe with a kick. Obviously, this is easily modified, and if you want to make this Cherith-style (like we do in the woods), use a serving of lean ground beef per pouch in place of chicken, and season with worchestire instead of Italian dressing.

Preheat oven to 375.

Tear off a large piece of foil for each pouch. Fold in half, then crimp up two sides, so you have an envelope.

In the center of each pouch place one chicken breast, half a peeled, sliced potato, a quarter of a medium onion, a sliced carrot, a sprinkle of celery salt and some pepper, and a tablespoon of Italian dressing.

Fold up the pouch and bake for about 45 minutes (for medium to large-sized chicken breasts) and enjoy!